Sommer Spaziergang

Posted on July 1, 2011 by Jean

We are at the height of summer now in Graz. It’s hot in the days (high 70’s to mid-80’s), and often humid. Colorful flowers adorn all the plazas and hang over the balconies of the buildings. Thunderstorms appear frequently in the late afternoon or evening, sometimes accompanied by hail! Still, most days are glorious with bright blue sky and sunshine.

We spent one day with ‘interesting skies’ (that is, looking like it might rain at any moment) walking around and seeing some of the sights of Graz we hadn’t really looked closely at yet.

Come along!

At the end of one of the downtown Graz passageways is the Landhaus. It’s termed the ‘Renaissance Jewel’, one of the prime examples of secular high renaissance in central Europe. Created by/for the Protestant nobility, the Landhaus has a central courtyard with well. The well is of cast bronze and dates from 1590. The little statue is modern, although he kind of looks like Krampus‎.

The landhaus in Graz

love those Renaissance arches and decorations (downspout)

Walking away from the Landhaus, one soon comes to the River Mur. Several bridges cross the river and most are bicycle-friendly. We borrowed bikes in Graz but didn’t use them much, as it was difficult to get up and down our hill with the skinny tires and just as daunting to navigate the streetcar tracks!

In the middle of the Mur sits a curious feature – the Murinsel. It’s on a floating island (but anchored), and is a restaurant accessible from either side. It also features a performance area and playground for kids.

Crossing the Mur; the Murinsel

Here it is at night.

photo by: Taxiarchos228 from http://de.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Datei:Graz_-_Murinsel1.jpg&filetimestamp=20110206172849

On the other side of the Mur is the Mariahilfekirche, a parish celebrating their 400^th year of existence as a parish church, which places its origin at 1611! The baroque church is also the home to the Franciscan Kloster – with a beautiful and playful courtyard and inside, the crypts of the Eggenberg family. We often see brown-robed Franciscan brothers walking around the city. The original Franciscans actually arrived in Graz around the 13th century.

crypts of the Eggenbergs, Mariahilfekirche outside, statue of St. Francis

Mariahilfekirche courtyard, plaza with schlossberg in the background, interior of church

Not far from Mariahilfe is Graz’ modern art museum, the Kunsthaus. It was dedicated in 2003, as part of the activities when Graz was the European Capital of Culture. The Murinsel also dates from that time. Unfortunately, we will miss the opening of the Ai Weiwei exhibition in September 2011 !

The Kunsthaus, and Jakominiplatz at the height of summer

Graz is a really walkable city. We’ve trekked all over the downtown area and through the university areas, plus our around where we live. We’re still finding out about other parts of town. Our friends, Gernot and Christina, walked us to dinner the other night – for about an hour and a half! We met them at Jakominiplatz (downtown), went through the city park, with its fabulous fountain, and sweet smelling trees, past the university stadium (where a sports fest was going on—it lasted until 4:30 am the next morning). We ended up, actually, more on our side of town, at a semi-rural gasthaus known for great beer and Styrian backhandl. Then we walked home. I hope all this walking will counteract the food and the beer! We don’t have much time left to enjoy it!

In Grazerstadtpark: fountain, trees, and monument to Kepler's planetengesetze (planetary laws); also a large tree on our trek to the restaurant (upper right)

Haus der Stille

Posted on June 27, 2011 by Jean

People often speak of ‘coincidences’ when paths cross or events that seem related but unusual come together in amazing ways. Personally, I think there are no coincidences, just those times when our awareness has been broken open and our defenses lowered so that we can see the whole picture.

So, I did not think it a coincidence to discover that our friends, Gernot and Christina, were active meditators, attended a meditation group several times a month and every few months, attended a meditation retreat at the Haus der Stille.

In mid-May and again in late May, they invited us there . The first time was for a Mass at the chapel, and the second time was for a silent weekend retreat. Bill and I attended together the first, which was followed by a lunch in the reception hall (more opportunity for meeting great Austrian people!), and a hike in the area around the Haus der Stille on the Markus Weg. I alone attended the second, a Zen-style retreat, with maybe 14 others from various parts of Austria.

The Haus der Stille is located in the countryside not too far from Graz. It’s surrounded by farm houses and fields. Once, it belonged to a order of RC sisters, but then was purchased by the Franciscans. A priest ( Fr. Karl Maderner, OFM, friar, priest) had a vision to create a beautiful space for worship and contemplation. He succeeded in so many ways.

the Haus der Stille, chapel, Peace, reception area and Christina

Today the Haus der Stille offers individuals and groups the opportunity for quiet and reflection. The chapel invites one to the same. The Mass held there is contemplative in nature, although a ‘regular’ mass, and it is very inclusive. Some people kneel on prayer benches or sit on cushions; others use chairs. It’s inclusive in other ways as well. The first thing one sees upon arriving is the word ‘peace’ spelled out in a field being used by sheep to (safely) graze. The second thing is a semi-circle of monuments to world religions (named) and in the center,one to the unknown Mystery. As we walked up, I was pinching myself to make sure this was ‘real’!

semi-circle of pillars of peace

The ‘Stillegarten’, with labyrinth and ‘stations’ for reflection that consist of readings from all the world’s great religions and poets, is lovely. On my retreat there I walked that area several times a day.

scenes from the stillegarten at Haus der Stille

countryside, sundial on residence building, roses along the peace wall

Perhaps one of the more interesting aspects of the Haus der Stille is not only the immediate area but the path known as Markus Weg (Mark’s Way). It’s a 4 km long trail with 13 stations of words from the Gospel of Mark, other words of silence, beautiful sculpture/art and a place to rest. It connects with another trail, “Ermutigungsweg” which features 7 stations with spiritual encouragement, to make a 8.5 km long circuit. You may walk alone, as part of a group, and you may remain silent, or you may wish to leave thoughts on paper provided at each station. This was a project of the Haus der Stille, in cooperation with Holy Cross parish, and the political entities in Styria and it was dedicated only two years ago.

along Markus Weg - sharing my life, responsibility for others, the last station

Walking the ‘weg’ I was once again reminded that the road we travel is already within us. As I opened myself to sights, noises, smells, tastes and touch (exterior and interior), I became one with the journey that is the way.

Americans in France: Part 2 – L’Isle d’Abeau and Lyon

Posted on June 26, 2011 by Jean

As we rode on the CVG train to Lyon and our friends, the fields of wheat, and rapeseed whizzed by, that is, when we could see them. With high speed trains, apparently we trade scenery for rapid transit, as much of the journey was in a straight and narrow trench with only occasional glimpses of the French countryside.

Lyon, in the Rhône-Alpes region, is another old city, and is known for its role in silk manufacturing. It seems all great cities have rivers that run through them, and Lyon is no exception, except there are TWO rivers (Rhône and Saône) which converge just south of Lyon and then flow toward the Mediterranean 230 Km away. We drove on bridges over both in a little car tour of Lyon before we headed toward the town where Chantal and Andre live, about 28 Km south-east.

Enroute we paid a visit to the home of their oldest daughter for introduction to 4 month-old ‘le petit Victor’, the first grandchild. Finally, we arrived in at their home in L’Isle d’Abeau, adjacent to a large plaza and surrounded by beautiful gardens. Chantal was in the backyard, in her atelier, guiding students who come for pottery lessons. After receiving, for so many years, photos of the house, the gardens, and the workshop (which Andre built), it was wonderful to see Chantal and her husband in their surroundings and in action. Bill enjoyed chatting with the 8 and 9 year-old students, quizzing them about which singers they liked (Lady Gaga – oui!; Justin Bieber – non!) and testing if they could understand any English (they could, but were shy about using it!).

practicing with le petit Victor, Chantal at work in her atelier, Andre watching, la Tartiflette

Paris may have the renowned tourist attractions but Lyon (and environs) gets our vote for the food, and that began with our first delicious meal with our hosts at, oh, about 9 PM. Chantal whipped up a Tartiflette, a dish from the Savoie region. It is made with potatoes, onions, reblochon cheese, cream, and lardons. So yummy, but pass the med for cholesterol name! How do the French manage all that fat content? By walking in proportion to what they eat! After dinner, we took an hour walk up to the church and around the town! Fantastique!

walking to the town church, the city 'hotel' (offices), le jardin, the old town well

The next morning was market day, which meant simply stepping out the front door to the stands set up in that big plaza in front of their home: more cheese, interesting meats, and fresh fruits and veggies.

Chantal buying the lamb, cheese everywhere!

Then it was off to Lyon, via the metro system leading first to the funicular up the hill of the Basilique de Notre-Dame de Fouvière (a basilica with sanctuaries on two levels and gorgeous mosaics!) and eventually down to old-town Lyon.

Outside/inside the bascillica Notre Dame de Fouviere

old town Lyon, the river, the plaza, Notre-Dame de Fourviere

On a street lined with restaurants (Chantal visited at least 3 before deciding which one would do) we ate salad Lyonnaise and les quenelles avec sauce aux écrevisses (crawfish), quite possibly the best food of our lives. (the foie gras in Paris pales in comparison and I have officially eaten food I never thought I would!)

la rue des restaurants, Le pere Fillon aux les trois cochons (pigs), les quenelles avec sauce aux ecrevisses, salad lyonnaise, Place des Terreaux, fountain of the 4 rivers of France

Old Lyon is largely Renaissance with a very interesting feature: traboules, passageways between buildings, and sometimes between streets. You will find passageways and courtyards in Graz, but rarely do they rise and criss-cross several stories off the ground. Although most of the traboules lead to private residences, many city-dwellers have opted to keep the historic traboules accessible to the public. One only has to ring a buzzer and push on the heavy wooden door to stroll through the tunnel and arrive in a light-bathed courtyard offering a photographer’s dream of wells, stairs and gargoyles.

les traboules!

We finished our day with a visit to the Lyon Cathedral with its astronomical clock, and a walk to the river.

The cathedral also has an astronomical clock from the 14th century.

The next morning was for preparing for dinner with le petit Victor and his family, plus the other grandparents (from close to Grenoble) who arrived at 11:30 AM. On the menu: l’oignon tarte, homemade foie gras, little breads with various tapenades, sliced terrines, fresh baby radishes, nuts, and several types of liqueurs, including orange liqueur à Chantal. This was a living tableau of Mastering the Art of French Cooking, and those were just the aperitifs!

getting ready for Sunday dinner

Dinner was lamb (including the kidneys!) and vegetables en brochette, tabbouleh made with couscous, bread and wine. Following that, the cheese course. Et en fin, dessert. Chantal served a cherry clafouti created earlier that day, with 2 or 3 choices of ice cream, which alone seemed perfect. But we also had visited the bakery on Sunday morning (bakeries there are open on Sunday; closed on Monday) not only for artisan baguettes, but also an insane variety of dessert pastries.

le boulangerie, les grandmeres, the cook!

the table of aperitifs, brothers in law, Olivier, family shot

dinner (for the dog, too), dessert, rest

We lounged a while in the backyard, entertaining the dog, and then it was time for …. a stroll! This time we walked to an old amphitheater, and by an old quarry for a view of the Alps. OK you had to squint to see them, but they were there.

after dinner relaxing, and then...the walk and the alps.

The other families departed, Clementine (daughter #2) arrived for a brief visit, and when the conversation drifted to the royal wedding, the modeling began. Somehow French women just look better in their clothes, and their hats!

Still, the night was young, so we zipped out in the car for a look at the old chateau that was the reception site for Aurélie and Matthieu’s wedding, again with a gorgeous view. Between the company, the food and the scenery, we felt absolutely complete!

views of the countryside, 3 generations love NY, our hosts, castle ruins

Clementine in her mother's hat, the grandparents adore the baby, Clementine with her parents

All too soon it was time to depart.

leaving Lyon, Chantal's orchid, a view of the alps, a view of Graz

If I were home this would be the point at which I would pull out my worn copy of Le Petit Prince by Lyon’s famous native son, Antoine de St. Exupéry. When I continued my French studies in college, I wrote a paper about this brave and adventurous man who shared such wisdom in his novella. As Chantal dropped us off at the airport which bears his name, we both had tears in our eyes: Sadness at the parting but joy for the time we spent together. And in our hearts, delicious memories. No words needed.

“And now here is my secret, a very simple secret; it is only

with the heart that one can see rightly, what is essential is invisible to the eye.”

–Antoine de St. Exupery

Saint-Exupery statue

Au revoir pour maintenant.

Americans in Paris: part 1 of our trip to France

Posted on June 22, 2011 by Jean

Ah France! The country of my dreams, thanks to a wonderful teacher in high school who instilled a love for that country.

Monsieur McConnell was a Frenchman, or at least a Francophile, in what appeared to be Scottish skin. He taught all the classes of French at Thomas Jefferson High School in Alexandria, Virginia, for quite a while until joined by another colleague. By that time, I had continued on to the higher levels and his classes were the only choice. Lucky us! What stands out is the last year of our classes – beyond Plus-que-parfait, Passé compose, and Imparfait verb conjugations (yes we learned those, too!). The 4^th year Français was a year of immersion in culture. We conversed only en français, created or ate French food nearly every week, and learned about the history of the country, from Clovis to de Gaulle, who was President of France at the time. Hugo, Voltaire, Molière, St. Exupery, all came alive in that classroom. When the holidays rolled around, we sang “Un Flambeau Jeanette Isabella” accompanied by Mr. McConnell on his autoharp.

Mr. McConnell’s specialty was art (well, maybe his specialty was languages and music, but he certainly knew a lot about art, too!), and everything remotely affiliated with the French “stream” – which included all the European painters and sculptors, from Romanesque to modern – came alive via slide shows, reproductions, and visits to the National Gallery of Art. We learned about the symbolism of colors in early Gothic and Medieval art, and wove our way right through Poussin, Fragonard, David and Ingres to Manet, Monet, Guagin, Toulouse-Lautrec, Matisse, Degas, Rodin, Seurat, Utrillo and Chagall.

These are lessons that have stayed with me right up to this day and, when the synapses are all firing (if you don’t use it you lose it), I can manage une petite conversation, as well. So, imagine my happiness when we learned we would mount a visit to our friends who live near Lyon, with a short trip to Paris beforehand. Oui! It was my first.

We had only 2 ½ days in Paris, and saw everything on our ‘short list’: The Louvre, the Eiffel Tower, the Musée d’Orsay, Les Tuileries, Place de la Concorde, Champs Élysées, l’Arc du triomphe, La Sainte-Chapelle, Notre Dame, Musée de Moyen Age, the Latin Quarter, Rodin Musée, L’Orangerie, Montmartre, Basilique du Sacré-Cœur, and a boat ride on the Seine. We met some great people from Paris, Norway, the Czech Republic, and even Cleveland, Ohio! We walked much of it, even the entire length of the Champs Élysées and up all the steps of l’Arc du triomphe. We lingered over late dinners and enjoyed leisurely lunches. We had only un petit incident with a pickpocket without any luck on his part. Yes, we spent only 2 hours in the Louvre but saw all that was possible at each of the other museums we visited. (And frankly 2 hours at a museum as big as the Louvre was enough.) Once again, staying in a non-tourist area (the 10^th arrondissement) allowed a glimpse of ‘real’ Paris, if such a thing exists! A wonderful experience at the B and B, with a charming, helpful and articulate host who prepared breakfasts that should be framed, (they were so artistic) simply capped it off.

Back then, I am not sure if any of us had any idea of the extra work and time Mr. McConnell put into his teaching so that we could experience ‘France’ with as much reality as American teenagers in the 1960’s could. Remember, this is before the internet and easily accessed information. Whatever Mr. McConnell presented, he had to do the research first. By hand. But I am quite certain of this: his words ‘stuck’ and his love of teaching (so entertaining) shone through. He was, frankly, brilliant. I am a teacher and my daughter-in-law is a teacher, so I have some idea now of just how much of himself this man brought to his fortunate students. But then I didn’t. It’s time to say, ‘thanks’. So les chapeaux off to you, Monsieur Adair McConnell. Merci, merci!

les petites déjeuners artistiques; our host, Jozsef; courtyard of B and B

Day One

scenes from le Louvre

at the Eiffel Tower

Pont Neuf, Les Tuileries, Pont des Arts, The Musée d'Orsay

The Musee d”Orsay was being renovated, but most of the upper galleries, with all the impressionism, had been moved down. There was also a top-notch (and very popular) exhibit of the works of Édouard Manet, who is often confused with Monet. As my father would say, “Not the same animal, at all.”

Up the Champs Elysées - transport, woman begging, l'arc, view to La Defence, King Tut

Day Two

the amazing Sainte-Chapelle! (favorite church ever!)

orchid from our b&b; palais du justice, l'arc in our 'hood, Notre Dame

While Notre Dame was lovely also (we stayed through part of the Mass for the Ascension of Christ), with some amazing relics and carvings (not to mention the rosette windows), we so enjoyed the Musée du Moyen Age, housed in the former l’hôtel de Cluny. This is not a hotel, but the headquarters/residences of the abbots from the Cluny Abbey (Burgundy) when they were in Paris.

les fruits de mers; Cluny Museum (of the middle ages) - Latin Qtr.

Lady & the Unicorn (Sixth 'sense' part) tapestry, Dürer stamp, The Annunication

By afternoon, we were at The Rodin Museum with verdant gardens – a nice respite from the sun. Rodin’s work is so powerful and evocative.

Hôtel Biron at the Rodin Museum, The Kiss, detail from one of groupings

We finished with l’Orangerie, a tribute to Claude Monet’s Water Lilies, but also a home for other great art from Picasso, Renoir, Rousseau….really, is there anywhere in Paris that great art is not?

details of Water Lilies, Picasso The Adolescents, a young artist

We were not completely finished with the day, however. After this, we climbed on one of Les Bateaux Mouches for a ride down the Seine, with approximately ~~1000~~ 998 other people. And then topped it off with dinner at Chez Francis while we waited for the Eiffel Tower to begin twinkling. Chez Francis wasn’t the top of the food chain, gastronomically speaking, but it has an unimpeded view of the Tower….location, location, location!

Bridges, Twinkling Tower, Bateau, St. Genevieve, from the back on Pont de la Tournelle

Day 3

We finished our stay in Paris with a morning trip to Montmartre, that hilly part of Paris that was (is) home to artists, Sacré Couer Bascillica, windmills, great food, and, now many tourists! We found tasty boulangeries and creperies, interesting art, a movie shoot, and some unexpected sights! Parisian writer Marcel Aymé lived in Montmartre, and is immortalized with a bit of artwork not far from his former home. He wrote Le Passe-Murailles, which roughly translates as “the walker through walls,” a short story about a man who discovers in mid-life that he can pass through walls. The windmills were part of the culture of the hill, which housed many bakeries that needed, well, flour to create the small brown bread of the same name (galette) sold with a glass of milk.

Sculpture, artist, pâtisserie, Le Moulin de la Galette, Sacre Coeur

We left Paris but not before we took a few more photos of the environs.

metro station, crepe maker, le Moulin rouge, fire fighters in our neighborhood of Paris

On the way to Lyon

We left by the Gare de Lyon to Lyon, on the French high speed train (CVG): two hours nonstop! (oh, how I wish the US would get ‘on board’ with rail travel!) The Gare had a great little ‘refreshment’ stand, sponsored by the water companies we are sure, to encourage people to rehydrate. We were only too happy to oblige!

Gare de Lyon, place de la bastille monument, rehydration station

Et bientôt, Lyon!

Vienna Walk-About

Posted on June 19, 2011 by Jean

The great thing about many European cities is that they are immensely walkable. When we’ve stayed in Vienna for a few days (mostly due to Bill’s professional meetings) I’ve had the time for and pleasure of walking around. Sometimes there is a small trip via the well-positioned and timely U-bahn but mostly it’s step by step. It’s my favorite way to explore a city. Maybe you don’t get to all the tourist destinations but you see so much more that way.

Quite near our favorite pension just off the Grauben, there are two lovely but quite different churches and then a little further away, the amazing and in-the-throes-of-reconstruction Karlskirche. Vienna is primarily a city that exudes Baroque/Rococo and Neo-classicism. Aside from Stephansdom, in its Gothic splendor, many of the churches and Important Buildings reflect the embellishment, massiveness and, to modern eyes, sometimes-over-the-top gilding of the late 17^th century to early 19^th century architectural styles, inside and out. Ruprechtskirche, a Romanesque church, and the Secession building, offer refreshing oasis in the midst of all this opulence.

Here are a few glimpses of some of the sites and impressions in my walk about Vienna.

On the way to Karlsplatz, one finds the lovely museum, the Secession, an icon of the Secessionist movement in Vienna. From Wikipedia: “Unlike other movements, there is not one style that unites the work of all artists who were part of the Vienna Secession. The Secession building could be considered the icon of the movement. Above its entrance was carved the phrase “to every age its art and to art its freedom”. Secession artists were concerned, above all else, with exploring the possibilities of art outside the confines of academic tradition.” The building is commemorated on the Austrian € 0,50 piece.

a bit of whimsy! Love it!

Across the street was a surprise, however! The Nashmarkt – hello Missoula Farmer’s Market X 100 ! Asparagus in 3 varieties: white, green and wild, cheese whose smell knocks one over, fish, meat, flowers, prepared food from any culture you can name! Too bad it was only 10:00 AM and not time to eat or drink!

As one heads from the Nashmarkt to Karlsplatz, you find the unexpected: The Vienna University of Technology with some pretty interesting ornamentation, the old Karlsplatz stadtbahn station (another icon of The Secessionist movement), a park with children, ducks on/people by the reflecting pool in front of the Karlskirche, and someone setting up for maybe an outdoor concert.

And then, right there, is Karlskirche, the Holy Roman Emperor Charles VI’s tribute to his saint namesake (Charles Borromeo), in gratitude for the end of the plague (1712).

It’s huge.

Inside it’s as baroque as they come,

but the outside is perhaps more famous, with the huge dome and the two towers of bas-relief. They are working on Karlskirche, restoring the frescos and other elements. You can take a ride almost all the way up to the very top, and then walk up the rest of the way, so I did. (You know, in the US, they would never permit people to do this!) I doubt I will ever be as close to a ceiling fresco again. It’s amazing how UN-detailed the painting is close up!

view from through a high window, ceiling fresco closeup, money=prayers, the way up

Rick Steves says not to bother with the museum that is also part of Karlskirche but I bothered anyway. Aside from a wonderful exhibit of modern photos of the church, there was an exhibit of various depictions of Christ. Amid the drawings and sculptures by school children, there was this, by artist Oskar Kokoschka whose work I had also seen in the Belvedere a few days before!

Later that day, I wandered into the Peterskirche, another baroque church, and just in time for a horn and organ concert. If I had been on some kind of timetable, I would have missed it altogether! This clip is actually from the rehearsal, just prior to the concert.

The next morning, I strolled past Peterskirche, and over toward the Danau Canal, and Ruprechtskirche, quite possibly my favorite church of all I’ve seen in Vienna.

Although there is currently some debate whether the Ruprechtskirche is truly the oldest church in Vienna (possibly founded between 796 and 829), it is simple in design and felt like an oasis to me. It is dedicated to Saint Rupert of Salzburg, patron saint of the salt merchants of Vienna and is located in one of the oldest parts of the city, the section of the Roman Vindobona. It’s not a parish church today but used for religious meetings…maybe even meditation? I had a little conversation (auf Deutsch) with the caretaker who was present about the age of glass (~700 years old). The one you see in the center below is Romanesque.

Ruprechtskirche was notable for the absence of tourists – only two other people and myself were there that morning to enjoy the stille. But we were the lucky ones.

Thanks, as always, for reading!

Gibraltar: The Rock!

Posted on May 8, 2011 by Jean

The traffic getting into La Linea (Spain) was as bad as predicted: Long lines of cars and gridlock before we could split off to find underground parking in La Linea near the McDonalds. Once we parked, it was a long walk to one customs station and then a short hike across the airport runway (it must be the only runway in the world with a traffic light!) and past another customs station, and then into downtown Gibraltar.

our first look at Gibraltar

the airport runway of Gibraltar

crossing the runway

What a transformation from Spanish to British culture!

the familiar British phone box! I know - completely dorky pose!

Gibraltar, as all of Europe, has a long history of occupation by different groups (Neanderthals, Visgoths, Moors, the Hapsburgs, Spanish, British). Its strategic location at the mouth of the Mediterranean has been very important for the Brisith since the early 18th century.

early fortification on Gibraltar

modern day police action in Gibraltar

The Brits have managed to hang on to it, but not without some protest from Spain. We grabbed lunch, in pounds, at a fish and chips restaurant, which seemed only appropriate, and headed toward the cable car which could take us to the top.

The weather continued to hold but looked threatening. We were getting close still had a ways to go, when we bumped into a tour van selling seats for the ride up, stops at 4 destinations, and the ride down – 20 euros. As we glanced at the gathering clouds it seemed like a good idea. So we abandoned our idea of the cable car up and the 4 hour hike down and jumped in! We had great views, (Morocco somewhere over there through the fog!)…..

we saw nearly everything we could (including the aggressive monkeys and Barbary apes),

the caves on Gibraltar

(Can you believe people actually let the monkeys climb on their children’s heads! )

why is this child smiling????

(On the other hand, maybe this an idea for a new ‘hat’ style!)

(Others preferred giving the monkey/ape “the High 5”!)

High-5's all around. Monkeys are paid in farfelli pasta!

and most important, we stayed out of the absolute deluge that began soon after the first stop.

Other highlights of the tour included:

tunnels left over from the Great Siege in the 18th century

The early miners were suffocating so made windows to be able to breathe.

Which they soon realized were perfect for cannons!

There is still a large military presence on Gibraltar. But maybe they are not so busy anymore, or they stay in good shape by playing football (soccer). We counted no less than 4 soccer fields!

The commercial airplanes take off between stoppage of traffic between La Linea and Gibraltar and also after the birds nearby have been scattered with explosives.

plane taking off, birds getting scattered

Meanwhile the weather continued to worsen, provided rain isn’t your favorite.

And up there in the sky, those black specks are some kind of eagle (the birdwatchers we saw at the previous stop told us so!)

With a last view of the Union Jack, we descended by van (van being the operative word here). Sometimes you just have good ideas and need to act on them! This was one of those times! We were still congratulating ourselves as we slogged through the constant downpour back to La Linea and drove in the rain toward Sevilla.

lots of wind farms in this part of Spain!

Thank you, as always, for reading! Cheerio!

Spain: Los pueblos blancos de Andalucía

Posted on May 7, 2011 by Jean

Our first view of Sevilla during Holy Week came during our trip out of town to Guacin. I will say more about Semana Santa and this apparel in a later update.

Semana Santa begins in Sevilla

Renting a car from Auriga Crown rental was quick and relatively painless, if you don’t count the insurance and fill-up fee. We are used to us and the car getting the once over on our way out the gate, but there was no one to report to that our car had a major dent in the passenger side door.

With our limited Spanish vocabulary, we were worried about navigating Spanish roads, but we needn’t have fretted. The roads were well marked and except for an unanticipated detour into Ronda en route to our destination, we found our way easily. (And, I am so glad to be partnered with a man who does not mind stopping to ask directions at the local petrol station!)

One tends to think of Spain as somewhat arid, but this section of Andalucía – and actually into Malaga Province – quickly becomes mountainous, moving from scrubby vegetation to lush, and adorned with pueblos blancos (white villages) that cling to the mountainsides like shimmering jewels in a crown. The road between them is reminiscent of the Going to the Sun Highway minus the guardrails and frequent turnouts, hence few pictures along our route! You will have to imagine the “ooos” and “ahhhs”! This part of Spain is also a central flyway for birds migrating up from Africa and we planned to do some birdwatching here.

on the way to Guacin

wildflowers blooming on the way to Guacin

pueblo blanco

Guacin is one of the southernmost pueblo blancos, sitting at about 630 km above sea level. On a clear day, you can view all the way to Morocco from the village. Derived from the Arab word, “guazan” (strong rock), the village is perched on the crest of the Sierra del Hacho, and due to its key strategic position was once a major Roman settlement. Many ex-pats and artists live here, as well as traditional Spanish families. The main business is tourism. The streets are as narrow if not narrower than in Cordoba. We saw why our car had a dent and realized every car we looked at had similar scrapes and dings. If you want to know how narrow, think of any movie filmed (or stage filmed) in a European city that has car chases and pedestrians jumping back into doorways as the cars scream by! That was us in Cordoba and Guacin!

narrow streets in Guacin

Once we managed to rouse the innkeeper at La Fructosa and figured out where in town to park the car (not on the street!), we headed out to the only restaurant open that evening: a patio setting for tapas once again, with the freshest possible olives and mediocre red wine. It started to get chilly so we moved indoors. I engaged our server about the FC Barcelona vs. Real Madrid soccer match we had seen on TV the night before and the second glass of wine was the ‘good stuff’. Maybe he subscribes to the Cana method. (The Spanish are near to fanatic about their soccer and posters of the World Cup winning team are posted in most of the train stations!)

courtyard where we ate dinner - Casa Antonia's

olives!

We kept our binoculars handy to see the passing Griffon Vulture, but were not rewarded. So it was off to sleep, dreaming about seeing Africa from our bed, and hoping for good luck in birding the next day.

view looking west from our balcony the first evening

looking toward Africa. If you squint, you can see it, maybe!

La Fructosa, formerly the 3 story Pensión La Española (early 20^th century) has been restored by the current owners. The very lowest floor, where there is an ancient wine press that served for consumption by the original owner’s family and other locals, has been transformed into a restaurant open on the weekends but also where we had breakfast each morning.

the old wine press at La Fructosa

This was the view the next morning.

We headed out on a hike, anyway, guided by a typewritten, two-page extremely detailed description we found in our room. For example: “Continue along the path, pass a rusting black and white sign “Ojo al tren” and you reach a sign “Via Pecuaria”. Here loop sharply to the right, cross the railway track then bear left and follow a narrow path between a fence on the left and brambles on the right.”

We guess it must have been a description written some time ago, with ensuing property and gate changes, as eventually where we were walking and what the paper said no longer matched! No matter, we enjoyed the cork trees, the views of El Hacho, the flowers, Red-legged Partridge, the fields of olives and oranges, and the walk.

olives! (even fresher!)

blue flower in Spain - like shooting star

orange trees

cork trees

el Hacho

If we had continued, we would have been caught in the drenching rain storm that continued for most of the rest of the day!

rain!

Based on a recommendation from a birding acquaintance, we drove the 15 km down to El Colmenar on the Rio Guadiaro, to see if we could find the vulture feeding station behind the railway station there. This road was even narrower and more winding than the one the day before—on the map it looks like a slinky ready to expand and is the sort that could bring on queasy stomachs! When I dared to look, the scenery was breathtakingly gorgeous!

coming into El Colmenar

many goats

sheep!

organic farming (olives!)

We finally did see Griffon Vultures and a few other choice birds as well, not at the feeding station, but soaring up in the sky where they belong! That night, Monday, we found another restaurant open and had to go in, not only because it was the only one open but because of its name!

La Taberna del Zorro

Which was, ironically, located right across from the police station!

Returning to our rural hotel, we found the local church and some signs going up for Semana Santa.

Iglesia de San Sebastian-early 16th century

Maria Dolorosa

which apparently includes a run with a bull!

The next day it was on to Gibraltar. But not before we got up very early for a hike up to the old castle in Guacin. The Castillo del Aguila (Eagle’s Castle) dates from the Roman era and was later expanded by the Arabs into a fortress. It wasn’t open on Tuesday, but we thought the hike would make good exercise before breakfast. What a treat that was!

view from the path up to the castle

castle looking up

We even saw a black kite riding the thermals and a surprise when we reached the summit.

this guy was waiting for us when we reached the top!

view of the descent from the castle

One last view of the village fountain, and we were on our way to Gibraltar.

Gaucin fountain of the 6 pipes

We were holding our breath for good weather and bird-watching en route. And if birds weren’t in the market, then at least we would see the Rock, with the Mediterranean on the left and views to the Atlantic on the right!

Taking it slowly

Posted on March 28, 2011 by Jean

Barbara Brown Taylor, in An Altar in the World, has quite a lot to say about walking as a spiritual practice. ( I really commend the entire book to you.) Recently, something she wrote resonated with me: “Jesus walked a lot, and not only during the last week of his life. If Jesus had driven a car, instead, it is difficult to imagine how that might have changed his impact. Surely someone could have loaned him a fast horse. Instead, he walked everywhere he went. This gave him time to see things….If he had been moving more quickly—even to reach more people—these things might have become a blur to him. Because he was moving slowly, they came into focus for him, just as he came into focus for them.”

As we have settled into Graz, and settled into the Lenten season, we have been walking everywhere. Sometimes we take the tram, but even to get to the tram or from the tram’s stopping point to our destination, we must walk. Nonetheless, even though we walk we are usually heading somewhere – to find a store, a concert, to work. Last week, I decided to slow it down even more by spending the morning walking in a specific area of Graz, not only letting my feet wander but also moving slowly along the way, and observing what came into focus.

I boarded the tram #1 heading in the opposite direction from our usual route, that is, towards the end of the line, where the bascillica of Mariatrost (Mary of Consolation) stands watch. (This is the same large church we can see from our walking path near our flat.) There weren’t so many of us onboard, and even the tram moved slowly through the tiny clusters of houses, apartment buildings and parks. There is one section where the road disappears entirely, and there is only grass on each side of the one-tram-at-a-time track. Riding with me were a mother and her preschool age child, an older couple, a young woman with magenta streaks through her hair, a man who might have been developmentally delayed and a few others. Going slowly, you have time to consider the marvelous and diverse weave of humanity’s fabric.

Mariatrost lies at the very end of Line 1, where the tram turns around to head back into ‘downtown’ Graz. Getting off, I could see the church in the distance but first there was a path, so the feet followed that.

the turnaround for Line 1

As I rounded the station house, a small collection of shops came into view and invited me on.

a hair salon

a first & second-hand store for children's items

Believe it or not, these were all things I had been wondering about since we arrived in Graz – where to get a hair cut, where I might find some baby items, where there might be a reliable butcher! Who knew these very shops would be waiting?

Going into the Schlecker, I discovered two items we had been seeking – a squeegie for the shower walls and anti-tick spray! The clerk understood my request for the latter and helped me find it.

a 'schlecker' or what we would call a drug store in the US (no pharmacy)

a butcher's shop

With no other buildings in view, I turned toward the Purberg (literally “pure mountain”) that holds Mariatrost. I passed a house that appeared to be a day-center of some kind. (Later I learned it was Mariatrost Haus, a nursing care facility and day-center for people who have mental illness and/or mental disability.) The man who was riding the tram with me earlier was there!

The way to Mariatrost is all uphill, and it is said that climbing the 213 steps themselves represent a sort of pilgrimage.

eine kleine Wallfahrt

I took my time (the steps are arranged in groups of 10 and are easily managed), pausing with each decade of steps to reverently consider specific situations in the world and in my life. These are some ‘thoughts’ I observed along the way.

statue honoring Joseph - how do we 'honor' the elderly and children today?

some of the first wildflowers of the season - where do we see beauty?

snail on the steps - ah! another slow mover! What triggers my impatience?

"the hand of the angel points the way into the heart of the world"

die Engel. Who points the way for you?

shadows - where we all must go if we are to appreciate the light

old stones - if they spoke, would we listen?

old wall with grotto - what are the walls we erect?

an open door at the Mariatrost - (with post office box in case the usual forms of communication don't work? 🙂

I think the post office box is actually a sign of how huge a destination Mariatrost must be. Today, though, there was no one else around.

the plaza - Mariatrostplatz with shops (closed for now)-w.w.j.say?

view from the top - looking West

"Here is my place" - one of the few places dogs are not invited in!

waterfountain with bowl for dogs Mariatrost - but they are cared for!

detail of fountain

Water is Life! Indeed.

Mariatrost is a baroque building (begun in 1714 and finished over a 10 year period) but like so many in Graz, has Gothic roots. There was once both a Pauline Monastery and a Franciscan order here. The latter left in the 1990’s. The church is celebrating their 225th year of being a parish! It is the second most important Marian shrine in Styria, after the Mariazell Basilica.

Compared to the very simple way up the steps, the inside of the church is either a tribute to or a riot of baroque, depending on how you view it. Still, a peacefulness was present. Here are some photos of the inside.

entering Mariatrost

light streams in

detail of ceiling fresco - Mariatrost

Hauptaltar Mariatrost - the Madonna statue is Gothic

side altar Mariatrost - the stone work on the pillars is luminous!

the organ loft and entrance to Mariatrost

sacred bones

detail of pulpit Mariatrost

: The word of God…choose a scripture from the basket and read it

I appreciated this interactive part of the church. My scripture was John 3:18.

painting of St. Francis

confessional - this one was 'staffed' by a Benedictine, or so the sign said.

grotto of Lourdes at Mariatrost

This was a well used replica of the Grotto of Lourdes. A lovely place to pray.

The fruit of stillness is prayer....

I sat for quite a while in the sanctuary of the church. So long that the noon bells started to ring. Maybe you would like to hear them, too!

Bells

With that, it felt like it was time to wander home again. Out the door to gaze once more on the beautiful hills and countryside.

farm fields - what is our daily bread?

And back once again to the tram station, where ‘relics’ of transportation are displayed in the Museum.

the Tram Museum at the end of the line

It was one of the first days I’d experienced with absolutely no planned agenda: no forms to fill out to take to an agency, no shopping or laundry to do, no monument or other attraction to view, no meetings or concerts, no place I had to be. How beautiful is the gift of spaciousness! I’m grateful.

Hopeless Causes and surprises along the way

Posted on February 27, 2011 by Jean

Today was laundry day. After almost a week of wearing the same trousers and only a few shirts, we just plunged in (so to speak) and tried the machinethatbothwashesanddries. We didn’t put in too much soap, and we managed to make the thing start and do what it was supposed to do. Hooray…the laundry was not a hopeless cause, after all! We felt a little like country bumpkins, going in periodically to watch the drum roll around. (We do have a front loader at home but, well, this is the Austrian version, so it’s different.) Next time, we’ll select a longer drying cycle because apparently 60 minutes is inadequate, judging from the amount of apparel we have draped over every radiator in the apartment. The good news is that stuff so arranged dries VERY quickly.

good thing this badezimmer ist gross

The day was beautiful so after we put in the last load, we headed outside for a walk through the woods: up the hill towards a small grouping of buildings that lie just behind the apartment villa. (We still don’t know what they are for. Someone obviously lives there, as there is most always a vehicle. A mystery for another day.)

It is Sunday and that’s when you really see European families out for a Sunday stroll. There were plenty on the path–runners in duos and alone, children with grandparents, mothers with high tech baby buggies. The hill we live on is part of the bigger complex of the Leechwald (yes, LEECH Woods), with extensive trails on both wide, maintained paths and through the trees.

well maintained path along the woods

beginning of the running trail – km 1

The running/walking trail goes for ~~miles~~ kilometers, up on the ridge behind where we live, past the edge of the city, and all the way to the beautiful Mariatrost Church. We could see it from one of the higher, less obstructed views on our walk today.

Mariatrost Kirche

The day was pretty hazy…not atypical for Graz. We have the same problem in Missoula, with mountain valley inversions. How odd, then, that on our walk we should find a rehab center for those with lung diseases. According to some lovely people we met on the path, that is it’s function and it’s part of the huge state hospital complex for Styria. (good to be located near a hospital, I think!) Perhaps the elevation on the Hilmteich is just enough to rise one up out of the smog.

Adalbert Graf Kottulinsky Foundation (the center for those with lung diseases)

So this started out to be a walk to look for and try to identify the birds we had been hearing for the past five days. As we were peering up at some kind of woodpecker through our binoculars, a couple asked us (auf Deutsch) what we were seeing. I actually understood that much. After that, it was pretty much downhill as far as the German speaking went. I didn’t know the name for woodpecker in German, but was able to stammer out the colors, at least. They were interested and we shared the binoculars with them and thus began a delightful conversation with Christina and Gernot. Christina, who has been to Montana and to many places in the Western U.S. ( even been to Heart Butte on the Blackfeet Reservation!) is a teacher of children ages 6-10. We’re not sure what Gernot does…it doesn’t matter…but they were charming and were so interested in what we were doing in Graz. They immediately invited us to their home. If they call, I think we shall accept. Warum nicht? (why not?)

the fence where we spoke with Christina and Gernot

Continuing on our way, we passed many feeding stations for birds, identified a few others (blackbirds, nuthatches, magpies, some very weird looking crows…) and areas where the forest was being logged. We aren’t sure if this is someone’s private logging operation, a municipal job or part of maybe a research forest, as in the Lubrecht Forest in Montana. I wonder if our German will ever be good enough to translate all the signs? Naturally, we forgot the dictionary, again!

one of the many bird houses and feeding stations along the path

logging operation

description of logging operation (we think)

Down the path we continued, eventually coming to a more residential area. The numbers of people increased and they all seemed to be headed either to or from a particular point. We decided to continue on to find out what it was. The ‘what is was’ turned out to be the Häuserl im Wald, a hotel/restaurant which was far bigger than the ‘hut’ that Häuserl implies. Extensive terraces, gardens, and a children’s playground were all part of this establishment. We decided to go in and have a coffee or maybe a beer.

Once again, the food looked and smelled so good that we decided to order. Again, no dictionary, so we did the best we could with what we know already and were delighted at how it turned out!

Schweinemedaillons in feiner paprikarahmsauce, mit spätzle (pork medallions in red pepper sauce with SPATZLE!

Bill had something equally delicious–roast beef medallions with an onion sauce and rosti (like little potato pancakes.) Once again, I brought half of this home! And here is the best part – we managed to do the whole transaction auf Deutsch!

On our way out, we again scouted the birds at the extensive feeding stations (grosbeaks!) and were surprised to see a horse coming down the road.

more surprises!

We had come maybe 3 km, so we clipped back along our same route at a good pace, stopping only to check out one or two birds and pay respects to the shrine of St. Rita of Cascia, Patroness of Impossible Causes, who must have been looking out for us all along!

the shrine of Rita of Cascia

Tomorrow, Vienna.

For now, thanks for reading and…..

Grüß Gott

The Hills Are Alive

our adventures in Austria

Tag Archives: walk